AnnaBelieve me, traveling on a boat along the fjords in the south of Chilean Patagonia is a memorable experience. It rings of slow-paced adventure surrounded by a stunning landscape. It’s more sustainable and way more scenic compared to plane travel; and cheaper too, if we take into account the cost of accommodation and meals for those days. Here’s all you need to know about the inexpensive Tabsa ferry between Puerto Natales and Caleta Tortel.
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Route | Booking | Costs | Duration | Timetable & distances
Sleeping & eating | Entertainment | Sights
Ferry Puerto Natales – Caleta Tortel
The witchy-named Transbordadora Austral Broom (shortened as Tabsa) is the local company that runs the inexpensive ferry between Puerto Natales (the gateway to Torres del Paine, on the Carretera Austral) and Caleta Tortel.
Although the ferry goes all the way to Caleta Yungay, most people get off at Caleta Tortel to wander in this pretty town, almost entirely built on wooden panels.
Alternatively, another popular route, on a boat with a more upscale and more experience experience, is between Puerto Montt – Puerto Natales on the Navimag ferry. If you would consider that journey, read in our article what to expect on the Navimag ferry on the Puerto Montt – Puerto Natales route. Otherwise, continue reading about the route with the Tabsa ferry.
The Tabsa boat called Crux Australis also stops at Puerto Edén, between Puerto Natales and Caleta Tortel. So this is the route:
- Puerto Natales
- Puerto Edén
- Caleta Tortel
- Caleta Yungay
Of course, you can also take the ferry boat in the other direction, from Caleta Tortel to Puerto Natales. Tabsa operates since 2016, with ferries transporting foot passengers, cars and freight.
Staying in Puerto Natales? Check here all the things to see in Puerto Natales.
Route Puerto Natales – Puerto Yungay
Although most travelers choose to get off the ferry at scenic Caleta Tortel, the ferry reaches Puerto Yungay just in 2 more hours. The advantage of traveling until/from Puerto Yungay, as opposed to Caleta Tortel, is that you’ll reach the Carretera Austral directly, which is more advantageous if you are planning to travel southwards.
Puerto Yungay is situated along the Carretera Austral, at the shore of Mitchell Fjord. There’s no regular public transport from Puerto Yungay to the north, towards Cochrane, nor accommodation (hostals, etc.). But if you take the short ferry ride on the Bravo River, you can stop at the legendary Villa O’Higgins, the last settlement on the Carretera Austral.
Villa O’Higgins is a good gateway to exploring the Bernardo O’Higgins National Park, or Laguna del Desierto in Argentina.
Practical info
Where to book
The easiest way is to book on Tabsa’s website: tabsa.cl. The website has an English version, but at times booking doesn’t seem to work there; in that case, head over to the Spanish version of the site. Select “passport” as your travel document. In case of problem, just reach out to them via Facebook Messenger.
Payment can be made with debit or credit card, in USD. You’ll receive a confirmation email right after the booking. When booking, make sure to select the correct origin and destination as Tabsa also runs other routes in Chile, for example around Punta Arenas.
Alternatively, if you are already in Puerto Natales, you can walk in to Tabsa’s office at the ferry port. However, consider that there are only 146 seats on the ferry. So tickets sell out far in advance, especially in the summer season (Dec-Apr). Therefore we advise to stick to online booking.
Costs
Puerto Natales – Caleta Tortel: 151 USD
Prices as of Dec 2023, for foreign foot passengers (without a car).
Find here on Tabsa’s website the up-to-date prices, prices for different routes and prices including vehicle or freight.
How long is the trip
The journey takes approximately 3 days and 2 nights. If you leave from Puerto Natales, the ferry leaves at 5 am; therefore passengers have to board the ferry at 6 pm on the previous night, and sleep on the boat, while still at the port. At least you save on one night at a hostel.
The advertised runtime is 39 hours, but due to strong currents, the travel often takes half-a-day longer, reaching Caleta Tortel only very early on the next morning. So overall, you’ll probably spend 3 nights on the ferry, as we did.
Check out the best things to do in Caleta Tortel
Timetable
In the summer season (Dec-Apr), the ferry runs once a week. In the 2021/22 season it was on Thursdays. Outside of the summer season, the ferry might run only every 2 weeks; so make sure you check the timetable on the website and plan ahead.
In case of bad weather, the departure can be delayed –sometimes days– so the best is to follow Tabsa on Facebook, where they post live info on departures.
Distances
Here are the distances from Puerto Natales to the different destinations on the route:
| Puerto Natales – Puerto Edén: | 450 km (280 mi), 26 hours |
| Puerto Natales – Caleta Tortel: | 670 km (416 mi), 39 hours |
| Puerto Natales – Puerto Yungay: | 700 km (435 mi), 41 hours |
Sleeping and eating
Sleeping is in reclining chairs. The chairs recline almost horizontally, so a lot more than standard plane seats. Chairs are the same as on long-distance buses across South America, so the leg stand covers the whole calf.
Meals are served 3 times a day. For lunch and dinner, there’s warm meal (vegetarian needs to be booked in advance by contacting them): soup, main and dessert. Meals are balanced but the portions are not too big. Luckily it’s possible to ask for a second plate.
There are shower cabins and toilets (including toilet paper) on the ferry – surprisingly clean.
How to spend the days/nights on the ferry between Puerto Natales and Caleta Tortel
Regarding entertainment, the views over the fjords are obviously stunning. You can marvel at them from the upper deck. Unfortunately, the weather is often hostile, with a lot of rain and wind mixed together. So spending all the time on the deck isn’t possible. Also, believe it or not, the fjords panorama does get a tad repetitive after a while.
For those cases, there’s individual TVs (like on long-distance flights) with films in English and Spanish, music and some tourist info about the destinations. Earphones are provided. With luck, you might be able to watch one of the best South American movies.
Many people spend time in the café to socialise. Chileans are super friendly and happy to engage in conversation in Spanish or even in English. It can also be a good way to get some tips about your next destinations.
Sights from the ferry: the Patagonian fjords
You’ll pass very close to the fjords, and you can even spot birds and sea animals: orcas (also called killer whales), humpback whales and black-necked swans, if you’re lucky and in the season (between Oct-Apr with the peak in Jan-Feb).
A map on the ferry (also on Tabsa’s website) highlights the main fjords and sights, together with the approximate time you pass them.
One sight is a shipwreck, San Leonidas, that, according to the legend, a drunk ferry captain conducted to waste. Don’t let that scare you though! You’ll pass very close to it too, and you’ll see how the Patagonian vegetation is taking over its hull.
The ferry journey can easily be combined with a road trip on the famous Carretera Austral, and we recommend doing so – learn about it in our post.
Another ferry option from Puerto Natales: Navimag
Navimag is a more upscale ferry company, operating from October until March, between Puerto Natales (southern Patagonia, Chile) and Puerto Montt (northern Patagonia in Chile).
The trip takes 3 days and 4 nights (from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt), or 4 days and 3 nights (from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales). Just as with Tabsa, the Navimag ferry also travels through Patagonian fjords, passing Puerto Eden on the way.
The price per person starts at 440 USD (as of Dec 2023), which is significantly higher compared to Tabsa, but for this cost passengers get to have more comfort on board: all meals, snacks, sleeping cabin, on-board expert guide of Patagonian flora and fauna, and even yoga classes are included.
Traveling in Patagonia? Read our Backpacking in Patagonia guide with tips on the best destinations.
