AnnaNestled in the Aysén region of Chilean Patagonia, Caleta Tortel possesses a unique atmosphere. The quaint settlement is often overlooked by travelers, yet it’s regularly listed as one of Chile’s prettiest towns, no less. Those who venture to this remote corner of the world are rewarded with stunning natural scenery, unique architectural designs, and the serenity of the Patagonian life. So let’s explore why Caleta Tortel is worth visiting, the best things to do in and around, where to stay, and how to get there.
Jump to:
Where is Caleta Tortel | Reasons to visit | Weather | Things to do | Hikes from Caleta Tortel | How to get there | Accommodation
Where is Caleta Tortel
Caleta Tortel (or ‘Tortel‘ as locals call it), is a picturesque coastal village in the Aysén region of Patagonia, Chile. Seemingly lost in a labyrinth of islands and fjords in the Capitán Prat Province, it’s set on the coast near the delta of the Rio Baker, a major river in southern Patagonia.
It’s perfectly located between the Northern and the Southern Patagonian ice fields, more precisely at the south of Laguna San Rafael National Park. It opens therefore a stunning scenery of icebergs and glaciers, only a short ride from the Carretera Austral – the main road across Patagonia.
Keep exploring: More awesome places to visit along the Carretera Austral
Why visit Caleta Tortel
We’d best describe Tortel as a string of colourful stilt houses built on a hill along the coast, with a tiny harbour surrounded by placid waters. Founded only in 1955 to exploit cypress wood, it’s now one of the prettiest towns in Chile.
Wooden stairs and walkways criss-cross through town, replacing the streets. They were constructed on a locals’ initiative, and the residents care after them. As a consequence, there’s no car traffic! With its relaxed and cosy atmosphere, Tortel is the perfect getaway for a traffic detox.
We were captivated by the beauty of the surrounding rugged landscape, its stunning fjords, channels and estuaries. The area is also dotted with small islands, which are great to discover by boat.
Not far from here: Top 10 Things to do in Puerto Natales, Chile
But, for us, the main reasons to visit Caleta Tortel is to escape the crowds that pile up in other parts of Patagonia. With such a ‘land’s end’ feeling, it’s the perfect destination for an off-the-beaten-path experience in Chile, and a chance to connect with nature and the local culture.
The ferry that runs from Puerto Natales stops in Caleta Tortel. So it’s definitely worth spending time here, especially if you’re on a sailing cruise among the Patagonian fjords.
Weather in Caleta Tortel
Before planning a trip to Caleta Tortel, it’s essential to understand the weather patterns of the region.
The climate in this part of Chile is characterized by cold temperatures and frequent rainfall throughout the year. In fact, it’s said that it rains every day of the year in Tortel, and we saw everyone here carrying an umbrella.
Luckily, even though it rains every day, it doesn’t rain all day. And as the Danes say, “there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing”. So just be prepared to cold, humid weather with several layers, a rain jacket or an umbrella, and waterproof shoes. Despite the unpredictable weather, you can revel in stunning natural beauty regardless of the season.
Packing anxiety? Help yourself to our packing list for real minimalists
Things to do in Caleta Tortel
1. Explore the wooden walkways across town
You’ll bump into picture-worthy views on every corner of this 15 km/9.3 mi walkway, that goes along the coast and up the hill. Colourful wooden houses adorn the hillside, scattered around the boardwalk labyrinth.
The atmosphere is so romantic and mysterious, we spent hours walking and marvelling! Something as simple as the reflection of standing boats at the foot of green hills, or the clouds kissing the water, takes here a poetic touch.
2. Hike to the hilltop
As soon as it stops raining, grab a snack and hike up to one of the lookouts, for example on Cerro Tortel.
It gives a fantastic view on the town, the harbour, and the nearby islands, fjords, and snow-capped mountains of Patagonia. This trail is about 5 km/3.1 mi one way. For more nature hikes, see the hiking route section below in this post.
3. Discover the area by boat
Tortel is surrounded by stunning natural scenery, a rugged landscape of ice and rocks, including glaciers and fjords.
For an unforgettable day trip, indulge in a tour to the Jorge Montt Glacier, or to the Steffen Glacier and its beautiful lagoon; they’re respectively in the Southern and the Northern Patagonian ice field.
Not far from here: Discover the brand new Patagonia National Park
A boat tour on the Baker river, one of the largest in Chile, is another must-do activity when visiting Caleta Tortel. Venture for example into the mysterious atmosphere of the uninhabited Isla de los Muertos.
Providers offer various routes and lengths and you can book all your boat tours at the visitor center.
The sad story of Isla de los Muertos (“Island of the Dead”)
This tiny island –a national Historical Monument since 2001– earned its name from a labour tragedy that occurred in 1906.
The Baker Operating Company (which was exploiting resources in Patagonia) sent 200 workers from Chiloé to carry out logging tasks and build roads along the Baker river. The workers were accommodated onsite, and the plan was to bring them back by boat at the beginning of the winter, after half-a-year of work.
However, the boat never arrived, and the men remained on the island without food and in very poor conditions. Diseases started to spread, and 59 workers died within a couple of months. The survivors built a makeshift cemetery, and nowadays, 34 wooden crosses can still be seen on the island.
4. Try local dishes
As expected, fish here is king. It’s fresh and local, and several restaurants prepare it wonderfully.
Restaurant El Mirador in Caleta Tortel is a nice place with a wooden design and a friendly owner, who’s happy to recommend his favourite fish (e.g. cod and salmon). They also serve delicious craft beer made in Patagonia.
Hiking routes from Caleta Tortel
This region is a fascinating confusion of small islands and fjords; with, in the distance, the mighty snow-covered peaks of Patagonia. It’s definitely worth climbing up those pretty wooden stairs to take in a panoramic view.
Below are the most picturesque hiking trails starting from Caleta Tortel. A couple of short hikes can be done within a day, while the last trail we recommend is a 2-day hike. Some will give you a foretaste of the beauties of the Laguna San Rafael National Park.
| Hike | Distance | Level difference | Difficulty |
| Cerro Tortel | 10 km/6.2 mi round trip with deviation | 700 m/2200 ft | Easy |
| Cerro La Bandera | 6.5 km/4 mi round trip | 188 m/616 ft | Easy |
| Vigía Trail | 3 km/1.8 mi one way | 133 m/436 ft | Easy |
| Trail to Refugio CONAF Katalalixar – Casa Uberlinda (start of Laguna San Rafael National Park) | 10 km/6.2 mi one way | 43 m/141 ft | Moderate |
| Trail from Casa Uberlinda to Mirador Glaciar Stefens (continuation of Refugio CONAF trail) | 5 km/3.1 mi one way | 177 m/580 ft | Moderate |
| Trail Cordón Las Heras* | 15 km/9.3 mi one way | 1900 m/6233 ft | Hard |
*This trail requires camping (wild camping in your own tent).
Looking for more hiking trails in Patagonia? Check out our best Patagonian hiking routes.
How to get to Caleta Tortel
By sea
From Puerto Natales, the Tabsa ferry takes 2.5 days to travel to Caleta Tortel. We have a post that tells you everything you need to know about the ferry between Puerto Natales and Caleta Tortel.
By bus
You can take the bus from the town of Cochrane (in the north), or from Villa O’Higgins (in the south). We’re sharing below the schedules at the time of our visit in April 2022. Get the updated timetables at either bus station, or by contacting directly the bus companies:
- Buses Katalina: +56944261020 (Whatsapp) – @buses_katalina_cochrane (Instagram)
- Buses Los Glaciares: +56975245872 (Whatsapp) – @buses_los_glaciares (Instagram)
Keep planning: Explore the Carretera Austral without a car
By car
Leave the Carretera Austral (Ruta 7), and follow road X-904 for 30 min along Río Baker. Remember that no car is allowed in Caleta Tortel, so you’ll need to park at the entrance and finish on foot.
Keep planning: Essential Packing List for your Road Trip
Where to stay in Caleta Tortel
When we researched accommodation on well-known booking sites, we simply didn’t find any. However, on Google maps, Caleta Tortel hotels, hostals and other types of accommodation are marked. We managed to get in touch with them by messaging on WhatsApp.
Accommodation fills up fast in the village –especially during the high season– so book your bed sooner rather than later.
Below are the places we got in touch with:
- Hostal Entre Raíces
- Entre Hielos Lodge
- Cabañas José Santos
- Hostel Costanera
- Hospedaje Albita
- Residencial Brisas del Sur
Craving more stunning nature? Check out our hiker’s guide to Chile’s National Parks
★
Have we helped you find your bearings in Caleta Tortel?
We’d be happy to read about your experience in the comments below!
I’m all for the hostel and I should add this to my bucket list to visit Chile in a very near future
You really should, Michelle. Chile, and Patagonia in particular, are full of wonderful places to discover. Thanks for your visit!